Hola. The trip down the Costa Rica coast to Panama begins
with a ferry ride from Paquera on the Nicoya Peninsula, across the bay to
Puerto Caldera. I’ll take a ferry crossing anytime and this one hour and 10
minute crossing proved to be another great outing for coastal views and bird
sightings.
We have been fortunate enough to have sailed numerable
times, but without a doubt, smaller ships are our preference. Instead of 3000
to 4000 of loud, obese and inappropriately dressed “travelers” we are a small
group of 184 passengers including ourselves. As always, there is still the
element of the loud and the ignorant but at least not in terms of the numbers.
The advantages are numerous but not limited to the smaller ports of call one
can visit and the quality of accommodation and dining one can enjoy. Sure, you
don’t have the smoky bright casinos, Broadway show spectacles and musical extravaganzas,
but we don’t care as we are usually in bed before 21:30 anyway and up at 06:30
for a workout or a walk around the deck. The guest naturalist and friendly
interaction with ship crew and personnel is all the entertainment we need. Where else would you get to share a cab to the local market with the executive chef to pick up some fresh fruit and vegetables or hang out with the Captain on the bridge.
We are treated to remote ports of call where zodiac pontoons
are the sole method of disembarkation. Places such as Bahia Drake (where Sir
Francis Drake first landed in Costa Rica) Golfo Dulce and Isla de Coiba are
places unchartered by the masses and the lack of infrastructure and services
makes these destinations far more interesting from both a cultural and
environmental standpoint. The remote beaches are always welcome as the fauna,
flora and crystal clear waters are a relaxing respite from the hordes and
thrill seekers. The weather has been outstanding from the outset but we both
agree that the exceedingly warm and humid conditions, in addition to the lack
of trade wind breezes, makes our cabin a
well anticipated sanctuary.
The Panama Canal is to be a highlight and a bucket list
checkmark. Arriving at the port city of Balboa, Panama, the entrance to the
canal from the Pacific side is anticipated with great enthusiasm. I was
expecting a small town but the metropolis of Panama City peering through the
heavy haze is like something out of promotional video. Tall skyscrapers in vast
numbers are astonishing to me but I suppose, not surprisingly, considering the
importance of this major world waterway. Though the canal plays a major role in
the prosperity of the country, international banking, bananas and a free trade
zone, second only to Hong Kong also play a key role.
A visit to the Biodiversity Museum brings to the forefront
the importance of the Central American rainforests with the seemly unlimited
plant and animal resources which are critical to development of new medicines.
Unfortunately, many of both the plant and animal species have been lost forever
and some are critically threatened. Who knows, perhaps the cure for cancer has
been lost due to our own neglect and carelessness.
Touring old Panama City is culturally impressive as the Spanish
architecture is protected, and this region has been declared a UNESCO heritage
site. The crowds are extremely large as it is Good Friday and many locals in
addition to tourists want to visit and tour the Panama Canal Tourist Center.
The principle reason for coming here was to experience the
crossing of the Panama Canal in its entirety. We were not to be disappointed
with this declared modern engineering wonder of the world. To experience the
night time crossing was special. True, I would have preferred to cross during
the day but I think the night crossing brought about a special mystique, as we
met gigantic container, cargo and LNG ships going from the Atlantic in the north
to the Pacific in the south, on the opposite parallel canal. (You’ll have to
take my word for it that the canal goes north to south and not east to west or
look it up a map) The electric locomotives, shuttling back and forth, keep us
centered in the middle of the locks. Aided by the pilot who boarded at the
entrance to the canal, he is solely responsible for the crossing. The system which
opened in 1914 operates by natural gravity, as the waters from a manmade lake raise
and lower the six locks for the 8 hour crossing. The history and engineering
marvel make this endeavour is both interesting and impressive.
Well, this entry will conclude our winter 2016 travel
adventure. Where to next? Lots of ideas but nothing concrete as of yet. A little
down time, but not too long I would imagine, before I get the travel bug again. I’ll
keep you posted. We hope you have enjoyed sailing around with us and to all of
you, Happy Easter. Pura Vita. Hosta Luego.
